Thursday, March 27, 2014

Veggie Burgers... they keep getting better

I've been experimenting with different veggie burger recipes for many months. Store bought veggie burgers and uniformly terrible (and many are not vegan) so, like many things, you have to do it yourself to get good results.
My previous veggie burger post in October was for Southwest Black Bean and Brown Rice burgers and they were pretty good.
However, in January I found an excellent recipe by J. Kenji López-Alt. This fellow is a committed cook who really understands food.
His criteria:

The Perfect Veggie Burger

There are a few key characteristics that I look for in a great veggie patty.
  • The burger must be structurally sound. I want a veggie burger that holds its shape and doesn't have the texture of mashed potatoes, squishing out the back of the bun as I bite down.
  • The burger must have good textural contrast. All lumps or all smooth is no good. I want the patty to be soft and tender, but have little bits and bites of crunch and chew.
  • The burger's flavor must be good, but not overly assertive. I want my burger to have a good balance of savory flavors. What I don't is for a single flavor—say a spice or an herb—to dominate, restricting my topping choices.
  • The burger must hold together on a griddle or grill. A veggie burger that cracks or crumbles and falls into the grill grates when you cook it may as well not ever have existed int he first place.
  • The burger must not suck.*
In a column on SeriousEats called The Food Lab, he details his extensive experiments as well as demonstrates his mastery of cooking to develop the Perfect Veggie Burger.  I recommend you read this entire article because it describes in detail what goes into making good food and food that tastes good.
The final recipe is here. It's mushrooms, leeks, celery, barley and eggplant plus a bunch of other stuff. It's a bit complicated but worth it. I made a big batch and froze the extras. To cook the frozen burgers, I don't thaw them first but just fry them in a little oil over medium heat.
Enjoy!




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